St. Germainer

St. Germainer Paris Personnage

Illustration: Elliot Elam

«Do you know? I remember when this place was filled with writers.  I used to see Sartre and de Beauvoir here all the time,» you tell your partner over a Ricard at Les Deux Magots. You remember your time at the Sorbonne as a student, of your nights on Mouffetard and chanting «étudiants, travailleurs, même combat!»  Who could have guessed that old printing press you started to spread information about les maux sociaux would wind up publishing the first hardcopies of L’insurrection qui vient?  These days you publish cutting edge art books, but culture needn’t be sacrificed for egalité, fraternité, liberté, n’est-ce pas?  You lament the direction France has taken since those heady days of ’68, but in the galleries, shops, bakeries, and cafés of St-Germain-des- Près «la lutte continue». You bises your partner goodbye, ask her to stop by Le Bon Marché on the way home and pick up some Bordeaux from any year when Chirac was still in office.  You hum Gainsbourg’s Requiem pour un con to yourself and contemplate whether it’s time to move on to champagne.

Our favourite places to spot a St. Germainer

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Florian Aubertin – La Cave des Papilles

Text: Omid Tavallai The story has almost become a cliché in what’s hot and exciting in Paris: A young upstart with no formal training. Someone who bailed on a corporate career to pursue an unrelated passion. A DIY ethos guiding rebellion against the well-rooted establishment. This is not the story at La Cave des Papilles just off Marché Daguerre in … [CLICK TO READ MORE]

Café Coutume

Text: Omid Tavallai Coffee is Paris has taken a turn for the better in recent times. It seems a long time ago that people were slashing through the images of postcard-perfect zinc counter tops and romantic sidewalks lined with little round tables peddled to the masses, proclaiming “The coffee here kinda sucks”. This renaissance has a lot to do with … [CLICK TO READ MORE]

Astier de Villatte

Text: Aran Cravey Image: Sophie Delaporte Beyond the basic plate/bowl/cup trio of everyday tableware, I’m a mere Simpleton when it comes to the subject of ceramics. The finer points of teapots and terrines are lost on my “form-follows-function” sensibilities, but even my plebeian sophistication took a double ooh là là upon seeing the treasures at Astier de Villatte. The Parisian … [CLICK TO READ MORE]

Hermès – Rive Gauche

Text: Aran Cravey After over one hundred and seventy years, Hermès finally made the leap across the Seine, in addition to taking a bold step towards a more modern approach to their iconic style. The airy, tri-level store on Rue de Sèvres in the 6th arrondissement was originally created to house the swimming pool for the Hotel Lutetia during its grand … [CLICK TO READ MORE]

MAC/VAL Vitry Sur Seine

In the unlikely event that Paris is beginning to get tiresome, art correspondent Lilianne Milgrom offers two very different art experiences outside the Paris metropolis. Here she offers a contemporary option at Vitry-sur-Seine’s outstanding contemporary museum MAC/VAL.

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E. Dehillerin

Text: Carly DeFilippo If E. Dehillerin is not the most practical place to shop for kitchen equipment in Paris, it’s certainly the most nostalgic.  The vintage, forest-green storefront spans the corner of rue Coquillière and rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau, windows brimming with gleaming copper and stainless steel (as they have for nearly two centuries).  Opened in 1820, in the heart of … [CLICK TO READ MORE]

Au Petit Tonneau

Text: Brendan Seibel Nestled amongst the glitz and glitter of the 7th Au Petit Tonneau brings the neighbourhood back to Earth. Walking inside this unassuming restaurant is like crossing the threshold of a family home. The small staff are welcoming, polite yet informal and attentive without smothering. For over twenty-five years this restaurant has been headed by a female owner/chef … [CLICK TO READ MORE]

Pralus Chocolate

Text: Boris Petrovic Unlike many young and upcoming producers or artisans, struggling to obtain their place among the best, François Pralus has had a completely different agenda – namely, some very big shoes to fill. His father was a famous French chocolatier, Auguste Pralus, who, when it came to chocolate, won just about every prize and recognition out there.  So, … [CLICK TO READ MORE]

Hotel Thérèse

Text: Susie Hollands Hotel Thérèse is situated in a fabulous quartier of Paris in a typical building from the 18th century looking onto one that is even more exquisite.  This 3 star hotel is a discreet bonne addresse of well-heeled lawyers, art historians and the fashion crowd. Originally the street was known as rue Hasard, because of the number of … [CLICK TO READ MORE]

Michel Cluizel Chocolate

Text: Boris Petrovic In an attempt to write an article about high-end Parisian chocolate stores, create a top list of  the very best chocolate manufacturers in the world, and even write about the contemporary history of chocolate one would have to mention, sometimes even begin with Michel Cluizel. So, in a series of articles dedicated to Parisian chocolate scene, we will … [CLICK TO READ MORE]

Musée des Arts Décoratifs

Text: Tiffany Tang Situated in the Louvre’s nineteenth-century Rohan and Marsan wings is the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, a museum of decorative art and design that houses over 150,000 objects, showcasing collections of antiquities and modern designs from the Middle Ages to the present day. The collections encompass a vast diversity of decorative objects including furniture, tableware, carpets, stained glass, … [CLICK TO READ MORE]

Maison de l’Architecture

Text: Anna Bromwich My dog-eared street map of Paris, printed in 1984, lists the U-shaped building opposite Gare de l’Est as a hospital, causing momentary confusion as I navigate my way from the station and across the street.  Today Maison de l’Architecture, the hospital was just one moment in the life of the 17th century former convent. Built in 1603, … [CLICK TO READ MORE]

Le Petit Paris

Text: Susie Hollands Le Petit Paris is a welcome addition to the mid-priced hotel options in one of the most sought after areas of the city. The old Relais de Poste is perfectly situated just 1 minute from the eastern gates of Luxembourg Gardens. It’s equally suitable for a lover’s weekend or  a family outing  perched at the slightly scruffier … [CLICK TO READ MORE]

Setting up a French association (loi 1901)

Text: Rooksana Hossenally Living in France has undeniable advantages which go beyond good cheese and wine, such as being able to set up a non-profit  Association Loi 1901.  Ideal for those looking to do something a little different in their spare time an Association can give useful structure to a group with shared interests  or goals. VINGT Paris meets a … [CLICK TO READ MORE]

Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine

Text by Anna Bromvich – If you don’t have the time to embark on an architecture tour of France, an afternoon at Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine works just as well. The three galleries in the permanent collection are crammed with casts, copies and maquettes of the last millennium of French architecture and a program of temporary exhibitions spotlights … [CLICK TO READ MORE]

Shakespeare & Company Bookstore

Text: Philippa Brangam Henry Miller aptly described Shakespeare & Co as a Wonderland of books. On stepping through the door out of the hustle and bustle of the busy Latin Quarter it is easy to see what he meant. The piles of books over two floors almost insulate the outside noise from coming through, and provide a literary sanctuary. The manner … [CLICK TO READ MORE]

Les Halles: Plastic Surgery for the Belly of Paris

Text: Michael Herrman    Nearly two years after the Conseil de Paris approved the makeover plans for Les Halles, the looming question is whether 40 years of discontent will finally end. A massive renovation of this centrally located area of Paris began in early 2010. Les Halles served as Paris’s food market since the Middle Ages. In the 1850s, elegant glass … [CLICK TO READ MORE]

Bob’s Juice Bar and Kitchen

This is one of the best places to go for healthy vegetarian fast-food. Get your wheat-grass drinks and smoothies, and menus including salads and sandwiches. Bob’s Kitchen offers heartier warm meals and plates as well as lighter fare. Bob’s Juice Bar 15 Rue Lucien Sampaix, 10th Ph: 09 50 06 36 18 Hours: Mon-Fri 7.30am-3pm, Sat 8.30am-4pm Metro: Jacques-Bonsergent (5) … [CLICK TO READ MORE]